The last trip oop north had an ominous portent – an email saying “the money has run out, so you can’t go up again until the fall”. OK, I know, psychiatry is not very important. And they’re increasing the use of traditional healers.
Huge snowstorm Monday, but Web check-in on Tuesday morning says “on time”. Weather in Attawapiskat looks bit nippy (-27C) so will wear carpet jeans. Arrive in Moosonee OK, but Trudy’s nice boarding-house is full (some conference) so stuck in the Polar Bear lodge. Ah well.
Busy morning Wed at the office, then smooth flight to Att … and wow! Blinding sun on snow, bright blue sky, your nose-hairs start freezing within 15 seconds – that’s cold. Fortunately no wind. Hump bags into back of hospital truck, get driven the kilometre to the hospital happily – to meet a very hostile glare at the entrance. “We’ve got no room for you!” … “I told that women when she called, we’re full.” Stand there meekly at reception, with bags, nonplussed but immobile. There’s nowhere to go.
Wing Director Cecile arrives, flustered. “We really have no room. The apartment’s full of doctors, the nurses’ residence is full, …” Turns out some idiot brought TWO medical residents with them, and technicians are here to install a fibre-optic link (so we can do psychiatry from Kingston, cheaper). Continue to stand there, with bags.
Our mental health worker arrives at last. “Oh, you’re at the Hookimaw lodge, I booked you.” So call the truckdriver back, wait, load bags back into truck, get driven back down the road to the “lodge” (a set of portables riveted together), get bags, totter up gangway – into another very hostile glare, “We’ve got no room for you. Full.” But I’m booked in? No. Again stand there nonplussed. Large lady goes off into adjoining cubicle, shouts down phone angrily, comes back, repeats the unwelcome-message. I stand there. She softens – “You need somewhere?” – goes back into cubicle, more shouting, comes out, “You’re going to the Koostachin lodge: they’ve got room for one. And don’t let that idiot truck-driver take you to the wrong place – he took someone all the way out to the Kataquapit lodge the other day”
So call driver, wait ages, load bags into truck (good exercise this), get driven back up the road just past the hospital, we bang on door of house, old man finally appears and says … “We’ve got room in the tepee”, pointing to it. Tony starts obediently to shamble towards it, and both men roar with laughter at white stupidity. Turns out there’s another portable, spacious, warm, well-furnished, even milk in the fridge. Mind you, the door-lock was frozen solid, and when Tony grabbed the brass knob his skin froze stuck to it – shame he lost his gloves. And wifi internet! Tony heaves a prayer of thanks, drops bags, grabs computer, strolls back past beautiful huskies to the hospital (it IS cold – look at that husky curled up against a snowbank sun-bathing!), and starts his clinic as though nothing had happened.
Lots of patients. Memorable were a pretty 14-year-old with DISASTROUS acne, and a terminal but quite happy alcoholic dementia, who’s going to keep the nurses busy for the next 10 years. Good luck, ladies. Work until 9pm, trudge back (it’s got colder, the snow squeaks really loudly), discover rasperries have “bled” all over my food cooler, microwave everything in sight (long time since breakfast in Dundas), remember to hang sopping wet towel in bedroom (it’s bone-dry well before morning), sleep safe and sound, but right next to the loud furnace.
Up in more blinding freezing sunshine, marvel at row of huge trucks outside my trailer (there’s less than 2 kilometres of road in this entire town. Guess they’re for the ice road.) Patients until 2pm, then the receptionist triumphantly announces the plane is delayed 90mins … long enough to miss the connection at Timmins. So chat up the nice medical residents (one turns out to have been qualified 5 years – oops), sit in the doc’s quarters doing email for a short while – oh, truckdriver arrives to take us early “in case the plane turns around”. (It stops on its way north to Peawanuck, and on the way back. But if it’s really late it might skip that trip.) Difficult – I leap about emailing and phoning to change my next flight, booking motel in Timmins, cancelling Gerry’s ride home from the airport – and the truckdriver threatens to leave without me. And one resident chooses to sit on the back of the truck (at -25) rather than sit on my lap. Right.
So we spend 2 hours in the airport hut while the plane does go up – but the conversation is animated, and I meet the old RC priest again (he’s been here for nearly 40 years, and is still working hard) and the bishop. And the plane finally takes us to Moosonee (women’s olympic hockey match on the TV – not as accurate passing as the men, I think?) and on to Timmins. “Our” plane to Trunno is just leaving, still has its door open, but we aren’t allowed on (regulations.) Everything in the airport is closed and dark, but we talk our way into sharing someone’s taxi at the door. The resident decides not to join me for supper (beginning to see a pattern here), but nice surprise – I’ve got a private palace! The motel (seedy and huge) has 107 rooms in rows, and ONE behind on its own like a little cottage – mine! Well worth the half-mile walk from reception.
Starving again and it’s 9pm and I’m alone, don’t fancy sitting in a restaurant, so order pizza (and eat it all, oh dear). Notice with surprise that the snow I trod into the carpet isn’t melting … it’s salt! They must have salt-morons here too, just like Hamilton hospitals, who leave huge piles of salt on each doorstep. Hoover it up, feeling very virtuous, then watch “The Bourne Identity” again (love that actor). Hang up TWO huge sopping-wet towels (both dry after a few hours), and sleep in blissful quiet.
Up with the alarm, stroll over for my receipt and breakfast pastry, notice I’m in a shirt and open jacket cos it’s so MILD here (-14C – I’ve been in Canada too long). Make tea – good job I brought those extra tea-bags. Chinese taximan arrives, I explain we’re going to “Cedar Meadows” to pick up Monica (the “resident”) en route, he gets alarmed and asks repeatedly “Is dat matter?” And his radio dispatcher is asking loudly if he’s collecting Dr. Carr. Huge confusion, I can’t hear his words). Turns out some other lady, Martha, called from Cedar Meadows and then left before her taxi arrived. Pick up a happy Monica (nice new hotel, beautiful enclosed grounds with moose and elk etc), get to airport, desks are all closed! Ah yes, plane is “delayed” to 12.30pm – exactly the same time as the NEXT flight to Trunno, what a coincidence …
This time the restaurant’s open, we drink endless tea and get chatting. She’s from India and trained at Mac, and reminds me strongly of Anita (the girl whose disasster inspired me to start the anti-Dawkins website), so we talk about this. She’s intelligent and staunchly agnostic (didn’t realize one could be – I thought they were all vague), so Tony picked up some interesting ideas for the website. And who knows, maybe gave her pause for thought? She’s been an ER physician for 5 years, and hasn’t had a nervous breakdown yet. Impressive. Try in vain to call Gerry AGAIN re arrival time. And finally we’re off, at last. As last month, the plane is full but the stewardess has no less than three seats reserved for her (2A, 2C and the one by the door) as well as the servery – and she hardly sits down at all! Talk to her about this – after all, she’s the only one not paying through the nose for this flight – and she explains the union negotiated this deal after a long fight. Hastily back down – have already discovered the passenger I’m jammed up against is a union steward. Nuf said.
Trunno – stand in snow for a while, then guess Gerry is not coming – call him – yep! He didn’t check his phone messages, came 2 hours ago and left in disgust. Shame. Get ride with interesting Paki taxi-driver, who writes poems about the Bible, and tells me Pakistan is WAY superior to India in freedom of speech and lack of racism. Road is treacherous, and he breaks off to say “ooh, look!” and here is a lady FACING us on the highway coming towards us. She skids gracefully into the central median (a concrete wall) and we miss her. Traffic is sparse … maybe she panicked and jammed on the anchors?
Well, it’s been an exhausting trip, but fun. Wonder if it will be the last? Have written a stroppy email to the Band pointing out no-one is now legally responsible for the patients. Ah well, I feel it is 20 years well-spent. GK